![]() ![]() QuickTip: Gray vs White, high contrast screens. I think you’re better off with the brighter screen, and then if need be – use low lamp, and aperture, to enhance the contrast. These all have gains of about 1 or brighter. This is not related to contrast, just my belief that you would be better served with a high contrast “white” screen, like the Firehawk or Dalite High Contrast Matte, or Cinema Vision surfaces. ![]() I would generally recommend avoiding the darker gray screens like Stewart’s Grayhawk or similar by other brands. Many projector screen companies make the 92" projection screen size and the Sanyo Z2 will blow you away on a 92".Īs I indicated, I use a matte screen, and screen surfaces certainly impact the overall image. Personally, with the right room and screen, though the Z2 is viable on 106" Dalite screens, and 110" Stewarts (their respective sizes), as well as equivalents from Draper, Vutec and others. Some might think 92" is as big as you should go. We're getting into the real subjective now, but I would say that 100" diagonal is the maximum screen size if you want the aperture closed and maximum contrast. Contrast, was very good, even though, fully closing the aperture improves it. I then moved the projector allowing me to project an image just shy of 110” diagonal and I found the projector had the “horsepower” to handle it well with aperture wide open, or even closed slightly. Note: My screen is a standard matte surface. (My theater is under construction, soon my walls will be 6 or 7 shades darker to eliminate about 80% of reflected light). Consider:Įven on full power setting, with the aperture wide open (maximum brightness), the Sanyo couldn’t cope with my 140” diagonal screen even under lighting that consisted only of reflected light from the screen, bouncing off of the walls. For overall dynamics, the Z2 performed very well within the constraints of not being that bright to begin with (compared with my PE8700). With minor tweaking, I found flesh tones to be excellent, almost rivaling (no, not identical) to those I find on my BenQ PE8700 projector. You won’t get as perfect a color/brightness/contrast balance with that type of setting, but better have the overall image more visible and able to cope, than worry about modest losses of contrast, shadow detail (that would be lost regardless in the ambient light environment). No doubt at some point you will want one setting at least optimized for richer colors, enhanced brightness, etc. ![]() This will be particularly useful if you end up creating slightly different settings for different types of sources, HDTV/TV, vs. None-the-less, I would recommend using a calibration DVD such as AVIA to hone in the ideal color balance. It really helps when a projector starts off looking great, and all you have to deal with are minor adjustments. Once I got done playing I was extremely satisfied. Still, for no fooling around at all, the Z2 provided excellent color balance. I also upped the overall color saturation (barely), but I started on the largest screen and it seemed like I needed a touch more. I found the color balance to require a little tweaking, reds were a bit strong especially on flesh tones, and I needed to raise the greens a couple of clicks. Out of the box, the overall color quality was excellent. Ok enough of the Sanyo Z2's "Physical Tour", let’s get down to what matters – performance! Please click on Next Section.
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